Breaking
Up A Dog Fight
Dog fights are a very
dangerous thing to try and break up alone!
When two dogs are in the middle of a fight, they are both in a high
survival/fight drive and are
not thinking clearly. You
should never rush in and try and grab the dogs to pull them apart. If
someone grabs them they will bite without even thinking about who or what
they are biting.
When two dogs are in
the middle of a fight, if they see you at all, they don't look at you as
their loving owner. If you
charge in and try to grab them, they will either react out of a fight
reflex and bite, or they will see you as another aggressor. When
they are in fight or flight mode they will bite you.!
The safest way to break up a dogfight requires two people:
- Each
person should grab the back feet of one of the dogs.
- The
dogs’ back feet are then picked up like a wheelbarrow.
- With
the legs up, both dogs are then pulled apart.
- When
the dogs are apart, it is critical that the people do not release the
dogs or the dog fight will begin again.
- The
two people need to each start turning in a circle, or slowly swinging
the dogs in a circle, while each person backs away from the other dog.
- By
circling, the dog has to sidestep with its front feet and as long as
you slowly continue to back and circle, the dog cannot bite you.
- At
least one of the dogs need to be dragged into an enclosure (i.e. a
kennel, the garage, another room) before either dog is released.
- If
you do not do this, the dogs will often charge back and start
fighting again. If you
release the dog to quickly the dog may turn and attack the person
who was holding its feet. (This
will happen because the dog’s adrenaline in pumping and it is in
survival/fight drive.)
If
you are alone when a serious fight breaks out, you should:
- Keep
your cool.
- Do
not waste your time screaming at the dogs as it hardly ever works.
- Remember
your goal is to break up the fight without getting hurt.
- If
you do not have one with you, go get a leash (allow the fight to
continue while you do this).
- During
a fight, dogs are almost always locked onto one another. Walk
up and loop the leash around the back loin of one of the dogs by
threading the leash through the handle.
- Slowly
back away and drag the dog to an object that you can tie the leash to.
- Then
walk around and grab the back legs of the second dog and drag it away
from the dog that is tied up. Remember
to turn and circle as the dogs release.
- Drag
the second dog into a dog pen or another room before you release the
back legs.
- Go
back and get the first dog and put it into a dog kennel.
Important
to Remember:
- Do
not use cattle prods or shock collars
to break up a dog fight. These
items will only put the dogs into a higher survival/fight drive. The
dog will probably think the other dog is causing the pain and they
will fight harder.
- If
you see two dogs squaring off through body posturing (i.e. one dog
with stiff legs and tail straight up in the air putting his head over
the shoulders of the other to show dominance) do not scream at
the dogs as most of the time the screaming will trigger a fight.
- If
you are bitten by a dog and go to the emergency room, the best
treatment is to leave the dog bite wounds open so it can drain. (A
dog bite wound normally should not be stitched closed because there is
a much higher chance of infection.)
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Choosing
A Dog Trainer
Trying to determine who is truly qualified
in the field of professional dog training can be a difficult task.
The following criteria is offered to help you make your choice:
-
Widespread dog training experience.
Inquire about his/her dog training background, years of experience,
and areas of expertise. You deserve to have your questions answered,
so don't be timid about asking them.
-
Humane dog training methodology
and gentle, effective handling skills. Reputable dog trainers are
concerned about the dogs' welfare. They also know that harsh or
abusive handling methods are not only unnecessary, but are often
counter-productive as well.
-
A genuine love of and devotion to
dogs. When you find a dog trainer with this important quality
you'll know it. The joy of living and working with dogs makes this
person shine.
-
Good teaching and communication
skills. Dog trainers who have this gift make the learning process
quicker, easier and more enjoyable for their students.
-
A sense of humor. Dog training
can and should be fun for both dogs and owners. A positive attitude
and a little laughter goes a long way.
-
Affiliations with reputable
associations, organizations and dog training clubs. While this is not
mandatory, it's certainly a plus.
-
Ethics before profit. Is
monetary profit his/her primary motive for training dogs? Is
everything this dog trainer does geared towards making money? While
financial success is great, ethics must come first.
A note of warning: Unless a dog
trainer comes highly recommended to you by at least one reputable source,
the bottom line for the consumer is Buyer Beware!
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Pet
Tricks
| Aah-Choo!
(Bring the Kleenex) |
Nose
touch to other objects (naming objects or just pointing) |
| Balance
treat on nose, then toss it up in the air and catch it |
Open
doors |
| Bare
teeth |
Permit
the wearing of sunglasses or hat |
| Bark |
Pick
a card (from a deck) |
| Bark
silently (Whisper) |
Pick
the hammer (use paw to indicate correct tool) |
| Beg |
Pick
up everything that’s on the floor and put it in garbage |
| Bite
water or snap at air (away from anyone’s face!) |
Pick
up toys and put them in toy box |
| Bow |
Place
face in your hand |
| Bow
and put head down between front paws |
Place
front paws up on something and stretch body backwards |
| Bow
and scratch off with back paws |
Play
dead |
| Carry A Basket |
Pull
on rope - close doors, open doors, open cupboards |
| Carry
purse or other bag |
Pull
your wallet out of your pocket |
| Catch A Ball |
Push
something with the nose |
| Chase
tail |
Push
things with paw (like doors, drawers) |
| Circle
around me |
Put
a toy IN something |
| Climb
a ladder |
Put
paws on a person’s shoulders |
| Cock
your head to one side |
Ride
a skateboard |
| Cover your eyes |
Ring
bell by pulling string |
| Dance with front paws |
Ring
bell with nose |
| Crawl |
Ring
bell with paw |
| Dance |
Roll
a ball in cued direction |
| Dig |
Roll
over |
| Dog
sits up in Beg position but shows pads |
Roll
over in both directions |
| Down
and then raise only back end up |
Roll
over with ball between front paws |
| Fan
the flames (two paws) |
Rub
back on floor |
| Fetch
a hot dog |
Rub
muzzle on floor |
| Fetch
beer from fridge |
Shake
hands |
| Fetch
newspaper |
Shake
hands with left back paw |
| Fetch
slippers |
Shake
hands with right back paw |
| Figure
8 |
Shake
your head |
| Find/bring
car keys
|
Shake
yourself |
| Find/bring
dog dishes
|
Sit
in a box |
| Find/bring
leash/collar |
Sneeze |
| Find/bring
TV remote |
Speak |
| Get
a toy by name |
Speak
LOUD! |
| Give
Me 4 (realistic version of Give Me 5) |
Speak
SOFT! |
| Growl |
Spin |
| Heel
backward |
Stand
on basket with front paws and make circle around basket with rear
end |
| Hide
your head (nose touch under cushion or blanket) |
Stand Up Against The Wall |
| Hold A Flag |
Steal
people’s purses from beside chairs and put them in a bucket |
| Hold A Sign |
Stop
dead on cue |
| Howl |
Stop, Drop & Roll (for
demonstrating fire safety to kids) |
| Jump Over Another Dog |
Stretch
out back leg straight behind as if pointing |
| Jump
through hoop |
Take money from someone
else and bring it to you! |
| Jump Through (Or Into)
Your Arms |
Tea
Bag Search: Dog to search a minimum of 3 people for a tea bag held
in their hands, people sitting on floor or chair |
| Kiss |
The Shell Game |
| Lay down inside a trash
can |
Turn On/Off The Light |
| Lead
another dog by the leash (or lead himself by the leash) |
Wag
tail |
| Lead
people (take wrist gently in mouth and lead person) |
Walk
backwards |
| Learn
family members names and carry messages back and forth |
Walk on front paws with
rear end up off floor |
| Lie
on blanket, grab one corner of blanket, roll over and cover yourself
up and pretend to sleep |
Walk
sideways |
| Limp |
Walk
up stairs backward |
| Look Away |
Wave |
| Let
go of rope |
Wave
bye-bye |
| Moon-walk
(scoot backwards in a bow) |
Wave/shake
hands with the other paw |
| Nod
your head |
Whimper |
| Nose
touch to designated colors or shapes |
Work
a puzzle backwards |
| Nose
touch to hand |
Yawn |
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Puppy
Socialization
Puppy-hood is the single greatest
opportunity to positively influence your dog's behavioral development.
Poorly socialized dogs are much more likely to respond fearfully to
unfamiliar people, dogs and experiences. Socialize your puppy early
so it will grow up to be comfortable with the everyday elements of its
environment.
Puppies are most accepting of new
experiences until the age of about 12 weeks. After 12 weeks, puppies
proceed with caution when encountering new experiences.
Proper socialization requires exposure to
people, pets, places, sounds, smells and experiences your dog will be
subjected to in its future life, including but not limited to:
| baths |
collar & lead |
hats, coats, umbrellas |
| being held |
crowds |
household appliances |
| being picked up |
crying babies |
moving feet |
| bikes |
doorbells |
nail trimming |
| blow dryer |
drive-thrus |
phones ringing |
| car rides |
ear cleaning |
skate boards |
| car wash |
feet handling |
teeth cleaning |
| cats & other animals |
garbage trucks |
traffic |
| children, men, women |
grooming |
trains |
Group Puppy Training Classes are a
wonderful place for your puppy to learn many new things and get some vital
socialization at the same time. But, if you are worried about group
puppy training classes before your puppy is fully vaccinated, try the
following:
- Drive to a busy store, or mall, and hang
out with your puppy on a mat near the entrance. All kinds of
people will usually flock to you, pet your puppy and you can provide
treats for the people to feed your puppy.
- Have a Puppy Party with friends and play
music, drop things that make noise and pass the puppy around to be
held and petted.
- Take your puppy to indoor meetings and
let lots of different people interact with and hold your puppy.
- Play sound-desensitization CD's of a
whole range of everyday sounds.
- Take drives to different places (the
country, the city, car wash, drive-thrus, etc.) and leave the window
open so your puppy can experience different sights, sounds and smells.
- Take long walks with your puppy in a
stroller, wagon or carry the puppy.
It is not advisable to expose young puppies
to dog parks or other places likely contaminated with dog feces until the
puppy is fully vaccinated. Delaying vital puppy socialization often
has negative long-term behavioral consequences and increases the
likelihood of dog behavior problems in the future such as fear and
aggression. So ....
Socialize Your Puppy
Early and Thoroughly
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Chocolate
Toxicity
Chocolate
is toxic, and sometimes even fatal, for animals!
Why is
chocolate toxic?
Chocolate is made from the beans (fruit) of the cacao tree. Theobromine is
the toxic compound in chocolate. Theobromine
effects the body in the following ways:
Are all
chocolates equal?
No!
-
Unsweetened
(baker's) chocolate contains 8-10 times the amount of Theobromine as
milk chocolate.
-
Semi-sweet
chocolate falls roughly in between the two for Theobromine content.
-
White
chocolate contains Theobromine, but in such small amounts that
Theobromine poisoning is unlikely.
-
A toxic
dose of dark chocolate is 100mg per kilogram of body weight.
Signs of
toxicity: (most commonly seen within 12 hours (or less) of
chocolate ingestion)
-
Excitement
- nervousness - trembling
-
Vomiting -
diarrhea
-
Excessive
thirst - sometimes excessive urination (at higher levels of
Theobromine toxicity)
-
Muscle
spasms
-
Seizures
-
Coma
(rare)
-
Death
(rare) - likely due to heart rhythm abnormalities
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Doggie
Dos and Don'ts
-
DO ask permission
from another dog's owner before allowing your dog to approach their
dog
-
DON'T let your dog
go nose to nose with a dog it doesn't know (no matter how
friendly your dog is) because the other dog might not tolerate a
strange dog in its face and may decide to "Doggie
Discipline" your dog
- DO spend quality time with
your dog every day (training, walking, swimming, games, etc.)
- DON'T allow your dog to run free
without supervision
- DO carry plastic bags to
clean up after your dog and dispose of the waste properly
- DON'T leave your dog in a car
with the windows rolled up on a warm day
- DO have yearly health check-up
by a qualified veterinarian and appropriate vaccinations
- DON'T allow your dog to ride
unrestrained in the back of a pick-up truck or other open vehicle
- DO feed a high quality
diet twice a day
- DO make available clean, fresh water
at all times
- DO brush and groom
frequently on a regular basis
- DO clip nails and brush teeth
regularly
- DO enroll in dog obedience
training classes to teach your dog how to behave around people and
other dogs
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Dog
Walking Etiquette
Always pick up after your dog!
No Exceptions! Always
carry plastic bags and wipes to clean up after your dog.
Do not let your dog lift its leg on
buildings, car tires, mail boxes or any other property belonging to
others. Take your dog to a
remote, out-of-the way location to eliminate.
Your most important responsibility as a
handler is attentive supervision. To ensure your dog's safety
you should:
- Pay attention to and keep a good hold on
your dog leash (or retractable leash) at all times.
Do not let your dog leash be pulled out of your hand or get
wrapped around someone’s legs or get tangled with another dog’s
leash. Hold, or otherwise secure, your dog's leash at all times.
- Do not let your dog charge up to other
people or other dogs. This is considered rude canine
greetings. (Dog socialization does not mean letting your dog
visit with every other dog it sees.
Dog socialization really means giving your dog positive
associations with the world they will have to live and function in.)
- Be aware of what your dog is doing at
all times.
- When your dog is on leash, it should be
attentive to you and not greeting every person or dog it sees.
It should only be allowed to greet other dogs or people when
you give it your express permission to do so, and only after securing
the other person's permission.
“No Dogs” signs should be obeyed! No
Exceptions!
If you are in a location where someone is
uncomfortable with the presence of your dog, it is best to make a graceful
exit.
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Hazards
to Your Pet
Some Potentially Dangerous items to your
pet:
- Aluminum Foil
- if ingested, can cut a dog's
intestines.
- Anti-Freeze (ethylene glycol)
- can be lethal even in small
quantities. Anti-freeze must be treated by a qualified
veterinarian immediately.
- The Sierra Company offers a less
toxic form of anti-freeze and they can be reached at (888)
88-SIERRA or check with your local Tractor
Supply Company store.
- Bloat (gastric torsion &
stomach distension)
- is a serious life-threatening
emergency which must be treated by a qualified veterinarian immediately.
- Bloat is relatively common among
large and deep-chested breeds, such as Basset Hounds, Dobermans,
German Shepherds and Great Danes.
- Many experts believe that feeding a
large meal within 2 hours of exercise or severe stress may trigger
this emergency. Eating quickly, changes in diet, and
gas-producing foods may also contribute to this serious condition.
- Symptoms of Bloat include:
unsuccessful retching, pacing, panting, drooling, an enlarged
stomach/torso, and/or signs of distress.
- Chocolate
- contains an element which is toxic
to dogs, called Theobromine.
- Corn Cobs
- can cause partial or complete
intestinal obstruction. Never allow your dog access to corn
cobs.
- Electrocution
- Electrical cords can be fatal if
chewed on by a dog. Whenever possible, keep electrical cords out
of reach.
- Fireworks
- Never unnecessarily expose your pet
to firecracker noises as they can cause companion animals
tremendous fear, and in many cases, long-term phobias.
- You can try masking loud firecracker
noises with music or other familiar sounds (radio or television).
If possible, take a brief vacation with your pet in a quiet rural
area, until the fireworks are over.
- Garbage
- Always keep garbage out of your
pet's reach, as rotting food contains molds or bacteria that could
produce food poisoning.
- Heartworms
- Heartworm is transmitted to your dog
through a bite from a mosquito containing the infected larval form
of the heartworm. When an animal is infected, the heartworm
larva can grow and develop into worms. These worms live
inside blood vessels within and surrounding the heart and lungs.
The adult worms mate inside the blood vessels, and their
offspring—which are called microfilaria—circulate in the
bloodstream. These microfilaria can be picked up by another
biting mosquito, and then passed to another animal.
- The disease can be easily prevented,
but it does require a visit to a veterinarian.
- Heatstroke and Heat Exhaustion
- The
normal body temperature
of a healthy dog may range from 99 °F to 102.5 °F
(37.2 °C - 39.2 °C).
- Leaving
a dog in a parked car in the summer (even with the window a few
inches open), can cause heatstroke within minutes. Heat
exhaustion is usually caused by over-exercising a dog during hot
weather.
- Both
heatstroke and heat exhaustion can result in brain damage, heart
failure or even death in a short period of time.
- To
cool off an overheated dog, wet the dog's body and paws with cool
water, then fan. If the dog experiences heatstroke or heat
exhaustion, he should receive veterinary attention as soon as
possible.
- If
your dog's temperature goes above 102.5 degrees Fahrenheit (39.2°C),
be sure to consult with your local veterinarian.
- A
dog's internal temperature above 104 degrees Fahrenheit (40°C)
is considered extremely serious and your dog should be taken
to a veterinarian immediately.
- Household
Hazards
- Bath and hand soaps
- Batteries
- Fabric softener
sheets
- Fly baits
containing methomyl
- Human medications
- Human toothpaste
- Liquid potpourri
- Mothballs
- Post-1982 pennies
(due to high concentration of zinc)
- Rat and mouse
bait
- Slug and snail
baits containing metaldehyde
- Swimming-pool
treatment supplies
- Hypothermia
- The
normal body temperature
of a healthy dog may range from 99 °F to 102.5 °F
(37.2 °C - 39.2 °C).
- Small
and short-haired dogs should wear sweaters when taken for walks
during cold winter weather.
- Any
sign that a dog is very cold (such as shivering) should signal the
owner to bring the dog indoors immediately.
- If
your dog's temperature drops below 99 degrees Fahrenheit (37.2°C),
be sure to consult with your local veterinarian.
- A
dog’s internal temperature below 96 degrees Fahrenheit (35.5°C)
is considered extremely serious and your dog should be
taken to a veterinarian immediately.
- Ice-Melting Chemicals and Salt
- Ice-melting chemicals and salt
placed across sidewalks and roads can cause severe burning to your
dog's footpads.
- Whenever possible, avoid walking
your dog through these substances, and wash off his footpads when
you return home.
- There are also products available
such as Musher's Secret which can be applied to your dog's
footpads prior to going outside, that may help reduce the pain
that is often caused by road salt and chemicals.
- Poisonous Plants
- Dogs can become extremely ill or
even die from eating poisonous plants.
- Keep all unknown types of plants and
any plants suspected of being poisonous out of reach of your pet,
and/or spray with Bitter Apple (for plants).
- Veterinary treatment should be immediate
if poisoning is suspected.
- Plastic Food Wrap
- Plastic food wrap can cause choking
or intestinal obstruction. Some dogs will eat the plastic wrapping
when there are food remnants left coating its surface.
- Toilets
- Keep toilet lids closed to prevent
your pet from consuming treated toilet bowl water that could
irritate their digestive tract.
- Training Collars
- Remove your dog's training collars
whenever left unsupervised or crated.
- Never tie your dog by attaching a
leash or tether to your dog's training collar.
- Always use a flat buckle collar when
tying your dog, and then only when supervised.
- Never leave your dog tied
unsupervised in front of stores, restaurants or supermarkets, as
they can be harassed, poisoned or stolen.
What To Do If Your Pet Is
Poisoned:
- Pick up the phone immediately and
call your veterinarian or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center
(1-888-426-4435; a consultation fee may apply).
- Be prepared to state your pet's breed,
age, weight and any symptoms.
- Keep the product container or plant
sample with you to assist in identification so the appropriate
treatment recommendations can be made.
For more information about
pet poisons, visit the ASPCA Poison Control Center www.aspca.org
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Meals
vs. Free Feeding For Dogs
Good reasons to feed your dog meals
instead of free feeding (having food available to your dog all the time):
- A dog's digestive system is designed to
gorge not graze.
- You can monitor your dog's food intake
and know the instant your dog goes off its feed, which is often the
first sign that your dog is not feeling well.
- Your dog will have no opportunity to
learn to guard its food.
- You can use your dog's meal time for
short dog training sessions. Think of feeding your dog its meals
as an opportunity to practice your WAIT training. Work on
SIT/WAIT and DOWN/WAIT before giving your dog its meal.
- By feeding your dog meals, you can
reinforce your role as leader and promote a healthy relationship with
your dog. "All good things come from you!"
- You can control your dog's weight.
- Feeding Meals vs. Free Feeding will help
spark your dog's appetite.
Feed
your dog from stainless steel bowls, as they won’t leach
chemicals into the food like some plastic bowls will.
Give
your dog 5-10 minutes to finish its meal.
Then pick up the dog bowl whether your dog has finished its meal or
not. Do not feed your dog
again until its next mealtime.
Feed
your adult dog 2 meals a day and try to feed at the same time each
day.
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Nail
Trimming
Cut
the dog's toenail to within approximately 2 millimeters of the quick. If
you cut into the quick, the toenail will bleed and the dog will
experience pain.
There are several styles of
dog nail
trimmers, including a guillotine type and a scissors type. The
guillotine type is the easiest to use on dogs. The scissors-type is
used to trim a toenail that is so long that it is curling in a circle.
Long toenails can grow into the toe-pad. The scissors-type cutter is
placed at a right angle to the toenail.
You should remember that untrimmed
dog nails
can cause a variety of problems including broken nails, which are
painful and can bleed profusely.
Within the center of each toenail is the
blood and nerve supply for the nail called the quick. In clear white
nails you can see the quick, a pinkish area in the middle of the nail.
Unfortunately, the common black nails do not allow an easy view. Cutting
into the quick will result in pain and bleeding. You cannot see the
quick on dark colored nails, making them more difficult to trim without
cutting into the quick. Cut dark colored nails in several small cuts to
reduce the chance of cutting into the quick.
The basic rule of thumb is that the nail, which curls downward, should
be even with the paw pad. Whatever hangs over must be clipped.
When you hear
the telltale "click-click-click" as your dog walks across the
tile floor, you know it’s that time to trim the
toenails.
Cut the nail below the quick on a
45-degree angle. the more diligent you are about trimming, the more the
quick will regress into the nail, allowing you to cut shorter each time.
Trim dog nails so that when the dog steps down, nails do not touch the
floor.
Although you will take great care not to
hurt your pet, sometimes accidents happen and you will cut into the
quick. Have silver nitrate products on hand – you can get them at your
veterinarian’s office or pet store. You can also use flour or
cornstarch to stop the bleeding. If that doesn’t work, apply a light
bandage for about 15 minutes. If the bleeding continues, call your
veterinarian.
Nails that are too long can get caught in
a variety of things (carpeting, crates, long grass, etc.) and be ripped
out of the nail bed. This
causes lameness, not to mention a great deal of pain for your dogs.
Dog toenails grow as do human fingernails
and toenails. The nails should be kept in good trim to avoid scratching
when the dog paws at a bare human leg and to keep the dog's structure as
sound as possible. Long nails can cause the dog to rock back on its
paws, causing strain on its leg assemblies and interfering with its
gait.
Dog nails have a blood supply or quick
but the end of the nails are dead tissue and can be clipped without
pain. The trick is to trim as close to the quick as possible without
actually cutting it and causing it to bleed. The quick appears as a dark
line in white nails but is almost impossible to see in dark nails. The
best way to begin trimming is to clip only the sharp, curved portion of
the nail and then work back a bit towards the paw. Clip only a small bit
at a time to avoid trouble.
On dark colored nails, the quick usually
ends where the nail starts a downward curve and becomes more slender. On
light colored nails, the quick will appear pink, while the free edge
(part to remove) is white or yellow.
Nail trimmer
types:
-
Guillotine trimmers are for small dogs
and some cats only. They don't have the strength or stamina to hold
up under long term use on large breed dogs.
-
Scissor/snip type trimmers are
tempered, very sharp and cost about $13. They
will last a very long time, and can be re-sharpened. They are
recommended for large breed dogs due to their cutting strength and
ease of use.
-
Nail grinders (Dremel, Craftsman
grinders) are great if you can find one with variable speed settings
(use low speed only). Use the sandpaper drums, not the stone ones.
When using these, the noise may bother some dogs. Also, be careful
not to heat up the nail bed by grinding too long on one nail. You
can burn the dog and cause considerable pain. A big advantage to
grinders is their ability to take off and shape the nail precisely.
Very little shredding should be seen if used properly.
Other important stuff to
know:
-
Styptic powder/ kwik-dry/ kwik-sorb/
cornstarch all do the same thing. They stop the nail bed from
bleeding if you accidentally cut too deeply. Use your fingertip to
gather up a wad of the powder and press it against the bloody end of
the nail. Use moderate pressure, and it will help the powder work to
staunch the flow of blood. Your dog isn't bleeding to death from a
little nick on the nail bed ... it looks like a lot of blood,
but it really isn't.
-
Dew claws can grow back into the
pad if they curl around far enough. If you find a nail has entered
the pad, take the dog to the vet to have it cut and the pad treated
for infection. This is very important.
-
Early summer months cause our hair and
nails (like a dog's claws) to grow faster than normal. Keep an eye
on your dog's nails weekly to ensure that the nails are a decent
length.
-
Dogs that have a hard surface to
exercise on occasionally will wear their nails down naturally, and
you may not need to trim any but the dew claws.
-
Over time, you will get more
comfortable and know your dog's nails. You'll get quicker at
trimming them, and as your confidence improves, a nail trim should
take less than a minute on all 4 paws.
You should examine your dog's feet every
few weeks to make sure there are not any abnormalities.
Your dog's nails should be trimmed every
two to four weeks.
Clipping dog toenails is not like clipping
human toenails. Only the tips of dog toenails are actually dead. The
rest of the nail is filled with nerve endings and blood vessels, and
they can bleed if they are improperly cut. Keep Kwick Stop available just
in case to help stop the bleeding.
There is something you can do to reduce
to length of your dog's nails without having to trim they regularly.
Lucky dogs who live in a city rarely have nail length problems because
they constantly walk on concrete. By taking your dog for a walk along a
paved road or sidewalk, you can contain your dog's nail growth, without
ever having to jeopardize it's health. (Note that your pet's dewclaw
will still need to be trimmed, even if you live in a city.)
If you don't have the luxury of paved
surfaces to walk your dog on, it's important to keep an eye on your
dog's nails so they do not grow out of control. Aside from scratching
you, other people, or your furniture, dogs with long nails can do damage
to themselves as well.
All dogs have something called a dewclaw
on the inside of their legs. If left untreated for a long period of
time, it can grow into a hook. This hook can then get stuck in a collar
or other objects, causing your dog to panic and do even further damage.
Some pet owners choose to have the dewclaws removed because of the
potential hazards, but this operation requires general anesthesia and is
usually done on very young puppies.
Nail care is an important aspect of proper dog maintenance!
Trimming
your dog's nails
Check every 2 weeks or when you hear a clicking sound when walking
A dog's nails grow over time like a
human's and usually require routine maintenance. Some lucky dogs
never need a trim. Their nails are relatively soft and/or they
wear them down through daily use usually by walking on hard surfaces.
A dog's nails should barely touch the
ground. If the nails are too long, they can cause the feet to
splay (spread out) creating discomfort and possible deformation of the
foot. Severely overgrown nails can actually curl under the foot
and pierce the pads at the bottom of the feet. Long nails are
prone to breakage usually at the base. Broken nails can be very
painful. They can become infected and require a trip to the vet.
Types of trimmers
There are two basic types of clippers: guillotine and scissors.
-
With the guillotine type you place each toenail into a rounded slot,
squeeze the handles together and a blade comes up and cuts the tip of
the nail off. The scissors type has short, squared or rounded
blunt blades with a round opening specifically for cutting nails.
Dog nails are round and tough so human nail clippers will not work well
if at all. The guillotine type of clipper is a bit more difficult
to use but has more leverage for tough nails. This type of clipper
has to be kept very sharp otherwise it will simply crush the nail
without cutting it. For small dogs, the scissors type is probably
easiest to handle.
The nails
Most dogs have 5 toenails (or claws) on each foot. The fifth
nail or dewclaw does not touch the ground. It can be removed soon
after birth since it does not appear to have a function and can become a
nuisance. Since the dewclaw does not touch the ground, it
does not get worn and needs to be clipped. In addition, it
can snag on hosiery, bushes, etc. and be torn off resulting in a bloody
and painful mess. Some breed standards require dewclaws to remain
intact so check with your veterinarian or breeder if you are planning to
show your dog. If your dog has all his nails, all of them
need to be maintained.
The
epidermis and the quick
The nail consists of an epidermis, or outer layer which is what we see.
It can range in color from an opaque black to essentially transparent.
Some dogs have nails of different colors.
Within the epidermis is the dermis or
quick which is shown here in pink. The quick has blood vessels and
nerve endings. When cutting nails, it is essential to avoid
cutting into the quick. Even though it can make your dog
uncomfortable, cutting just the tip of the epidermis does not cause any
pain. However, cutting into the quick will cause the nail to bleed
and your dog will likely squeal in pain and run away. If that
happens, apply a styptic pencil or powder to the end of the nail to stop
the blood. Alternatively, apply gentle pressure for a few minutes
with a clean tissue or towel until the bleeding stops. If the
bleeding is severe, you will need to bandage it and/or see your vet.
Styptic powders are widely available at pet stores.
When the nails are black, it is
impossible to see the quick. In these cases, cut small amounts off
the tips of the nails every few days. Stop if there is any
bleeding from the cut and start trimming again the following week.
Alternatively, you can file off the tips with a rough nail file or even
rough sand paper.
Nails can become softer after a bath or
swim so you may want to keep your clippers handy. As the nails
become shorter, the quick will gradually recede allowing you to cut the
nails even shorter until they are the proper length. The reverse
is also true. If the nails are allowed to grow long, the quick
will also be long.
Starting as a puppy
It's easiest to start trimming your dog's nails when he is a puppy.
Play with his feet, pick them up and examine them, trim the hair with
blunt scissors and trim a nail or two every few days. Trim nails
when your puppy is sleepy which is usually after play or a meal.
He may just learn to sleep through it!
If you did not start when he was
a puppy
You can get your dog used to trimming by desensitizing him to the
process. Get him used to having his paws handled by playing with
them frequently. Pull gently on the nails, spread the toes apart,
gently squeeze the pads, etc. You can feed him bits of kibble or
cheese while you do this so he associates it with his favorite treats.
When you go to trim his nails, it's best
not to make it big production. Otherwise, you may have to
drag him out from underneath the bed. Place the trimmer in
your pocket and slide it out quietly. Pick a time when he's sleepy
and calm like after a meal. It can be easier to do a nail or two a
day than all of them at one sitting.
Distractions
Place peanut butter, butter, jam or equally yummy substance on your
dog's body away from his feet. While he is licking it
off, you can trim a nail or two. Give your dog a rawhide chew or rubber bone stuffed with banana to keep
him occupied while you trim. Have someone rub his tummy or scratch his chest. If you're
flexible, you can do that with a foot.
Finding a professional
If you absolutely cannot trim your dog's nails, you're in good company.
Many dogs will treat nail trimming as a life and death matter and become
impossible to control. Find a good professional groomer who
will do it for you. Not only will he trim the nails, he'll tidy up
excess hair around the paws leaving a compact, neat-looking and easy to
care for foot.
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Raw
Feeding Calculator
-
2% if your dog is fat
-
2.5% - 3% to maintain present weight
-
Feed more % to fatten a skinny dog
-
Puppies may require up to 10% of body weight
Remember this is only a place to start, adjust everything up or down, depending on your dogs condition.
A good barometer is your dog, if he/she acts hungry, add 1/2 pound.
|
MEASURE
EQUIVALENTS
|
| CUPS
= |
Fluid
OZ = |
TBSP
= |
TSP
= |
Milliliter |
|
1 C |
8
oz |
16
Tbsp |
48
tsp |
237
ml |
| 3/4
C |
6
oz |
12
Tbsp |
36
tsp |
177
ml |
| 2/3
C |
5
oz |
11
Tbsp |
32
tsp |
158
ml |
| 1/2
C |
4
oz |
8
Tbsp |
24
tsp |
118
ml |
| 1/3
C |
3
oz |
5
Tbsp |
16
tsp |
79
ml |
| 1/4
C |
2
oz |
4
Tbsp |
12
tsp |
59
ml |
| 1/8
C |
1
oz |
2
Tbsp |
6
tsp |
30
ml |
| 1/16
C |
½
oz |
1
Tbsp |
3
tsp |
15
ml |
Calculator provided
courtesy of: Online Conversion
© Copyright 2002 - all rights reserved on any and all parts....
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Do
Dogs Laugh?
Don't look now, but is
that dog laughing?
(Science News -
Week of July 28, 2001; Vol. 160, No. 4 - by Susan Milius)
Amid all the panting, a dog at
play makes a distinctive, breathy exhalation that can trigger playfulness
in other dogs, says a Nevada researcher. Yes, it might be the dog version
of a laugh.
"To an untrained human ear, it sounds much like a pant, 'hhuh, hhuh,'"
says Patricia Simonet of Sierra Nevada College in Lake Tahoe. However,
this exhalation bursts into a broader range of frequencies than does
regular dog panting, Simonet discovered when she and her students analyzed
recordings.
Dogs at play give breathy
exhalation (top) that differs from standard pants (bottom, arrows).
They observed the bursts
during play but not in aggressive clashes, Simonet reported in Corvallis,
Ore., last week at a meeting of the Animal Behavior Society.
Gordon Burghardt of the University of Tennessee in Knoxville, who
theorizes about the evolution of play, says Simonet's presentation caught
his interest. Her dog-laughing proposal needs more testing, he cautions.
But he notes that other scientists have proposed that nonhuman primates
and even rodents laugh.
Simonet's team investigated the question by standing in parks with a
parabolic microphone that enables them to record dog hubbub from a
distance. "People kept coming up to talk to us, so we finally had to
wear signs explaining that we were trying to record," she says.
Simonet differentiates a broader-frequency exhalation from pants by
calling it a laugh. With recordings of such laughs and growls, the
researchers tested 15 mostly young dogs in an observation room. When the
researchers broadcast the laugh, a puppy often picked up a toy or trotted
toward a presumed playmate, if a person or another dog was in the room.
Simonet's own best attempt at the laugh likewise prompted dogs to look for
a romp. Broadcasting growls elicited no such effects.
This dog-exhalation study reopens many questions about whether animals
laugh, comments Brian Knutson of the National Institutes of Health in
Bethesda, Md. He has recorded chirps that laboratory rats give as they
wrestle with each other. Rats also chirp before receiving morphine or
having sex. He interprets the sound as indicating "the rat expects
something rewarding."
Such phenomena help neuroscientists trace the brain's reward circuitry,
Knutson explains. He says he's unsure about how to compare the chirp of a
romping rat to the guffaw of a person. "I think we've done a decent
job of figuring out what it means in the rat," he says. "Now the
onus is on the human researchers."
Another analyst of rat chirps, Jaak Panksepp of Bowling Green (Ohio)
University, has recorded the animals' ultrasonic squeaks while he tickled
them. "Of course, you have to know the rat," he cautions. He
says he is open to the possibility that the rat chirps amount to laughter
in the animal world. Also, he suggests that Simonet's team could search
for animal laughter by recording the sound dogs make when they are
tickled.
Yet another student of play, Marc Bekoff of the University of Colorado in
Boulder, says he thinks he knows the panting sound Simonet describes.
"When I get down on all fours and go up to dogs and go 'hhuhahhuhahhuh,'
they get very solicitous," he says. "Whether it turns out to be
like a laugh or not doesn't matter in the end, because what's important
are all the questions it opens up about how communications work."
References:
Simonet, O., M. Murphy, and A. Lance. 2001. Laughing dog: Vocalizations of
domestic dogs during play encounters. Animal Behavior Society conference.
July 14-18. Corvallis, Oregon.
Further Readings:
2000. The Smile of a Dolphin: Remarkable Accounts of Animal Emotions.
Bekoff, M., ed. Random House/Discovery Books.
Provine, R.R. 2000. Laughter: A Scientific Investigation. Viking: New
York.
Sources:
Marc Bekoff
Environmental Biology Section
University of Colorado, Boulder
Boulder, CO 80309
Gordon M. Burghardt
Department of Psychology
University of Tennessee
Knoxville, TN 37996-0900
Brian Knutson
Building 10, Room 6S240
Mail Stop 1610
Bethesda, MD 20892
Jaak Panksepp
Department of Psychology
Bowling Green State University
Bowling Green, OH 43403
Patricia Simonet
Science Department
Sierra Nevada College
999 Tahoe Boulevard
Incline Village, NV 89451
http://www.sciencenews.org/20010728/fob9.asp
From Science News, Vol. 160, No. 4, July 28, 2001, p. 55.
Copyright (c) 2001 Science Service. All rights reserved.
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Do
Dogs See Color?
Through studies it has been
suggested that an average dog sees similar to a human that is red-green
colorblind. Consequently, the dog's world consists of yellows,
blues, and grays. When a human perceives a red object it appears as
yellow to the dog, while a green object appears as white, a shade of gray.
This white region, also called the neutral point, occurs around 480 nm in
visual spectrum. According to the electromagnetic spectrum, 480 nm
would appear as a greenish-blue hue. All wavelengths longer than the
neutral point are indistinguishable from one another to the dog and would
all appear as yellow.
Figure 1 shows two electromagnetic
spectrums (from Dr. Plonsky, 1998). The top spectrum is what the dog
is able to perceive, and the bottom is what a human would perceive in the
visible spectrum (wavelengths from 380 to 760).
| Figure 1 |
|
|
The dog's ability to see
detail, also termed acuity, is around six times poorer than an average
human. Acuity, measured in cycles per degree, is how many lines that
can be seen as distinct entities in the visual field. Humans have
the ability to see about 30 cycles per degree while dogs can see about 12
cycles.
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Dog
Astrology
Astrological Influences on
Personalities:
Aquarius (January 20
- February 18) Faithful and logical. Has diverse friendships
and needs occasional solitude.
Pisces (February 19 -
March 20) "Go with the flow", prone to loving, lots of
attention, affectionate, enjoys sharing one's self.
Aries
(March 21 - April 19) A desire for independence, prone to a loving
and trusting heart, ambitious.
Taurus (April 20
- May 20) Quite affectionate and patient. Possessive and
jealous.
Gemini (May 21 - June
21) You either delight or dismay those who love you! A
changeable personality, spontaneous.
Cancer (June 22 -
July 22) To nurture and be nurtured is an important need.
"Swim" in an ocean of emotion! Very Moody.
Leo (July 23 - August
22) A natural performer. A mix of confidence and
vulnerability. Likes compliments and pampering.
Virgo (August 23 -
September 22) Independent! Gets along with different
personalities.
Libra (September 23 -
October 23) Lives to "love". Affectionate, loves
to share. Active and Outgoing.
Scorpio (October 24 -
November 21) Dramatic, Intense, Passionate and Mysterious!
Tons of energy and determination. Tends to be a little shy.
Sagittarius (November
22 - December 21) An "Explorer", likes freedom.
Assertive and Outgoing.
Capricorn (December
22 - January 19) Finds it hard to trust people. Becomes more
"youthful and carefree" with each passing year. Plays
for keeps.
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Dog
Crates
A dog crate helps to satisfy
the "den instinct" that your dog inherited from its
ancestors. The crate provides your dog with a house/room of its very
own and a private special place which provides your dog with a sense of
security.
Crate advantages:
- When home alone, it prevents your dog
from destroying things.
- When home alone, it prevents your dog
from getting hurt.
- When home alone, it prevents your dog
from soiling things.
- It helps housebreak your dog, as it
encourages control by the use of close confinement.
- It confines your dog when it is
over-excited.
- It confines your dog when it is
underfoot.
- It confines your dog when it is bothered
by too much confusion or workmen in the house.
- It provides a place your dog can retreat
to when it is tired.
- It provides a place your dog can retreat
to when it is stressed.
- It provides a place your dog can retreat
to when it is ill.
- It prevents your dog from dangerously
distracting the driver while you are traveling.
- It prevents your dog from getting loose
or lost while you are traveling.
- It helps your dog adapt to strange
surroundings while you are traveling by providing it with a familiar
"security blanket".
- It prevents your dog from feeling lonely
and/or frustrated from being isolated (basement, garage, outside) from
its comfortable indoor surroundings when being left alone, or
restricted.
- It provides a way your dog can be
included in family outings/trips instead of being left in a boarding
kennel.
Crate Do's:
- Do exercise your dog well both before
and after leaving it in the dog crate for extended periods of time.
- Do give your dog lots of personal
attention after leaving it in the dog crate for extended periods of
time.
- Do allow your dog complete freedom a
night, including sleeping near you.
- Do make sure the dog crate is large
enough to permit your dog to comfortably stretch out fully on it side
and have ample freedom of movement.
- Do make sure the dog crate has a clip-on
water dish and an ample supply of water.
- Do make sure the dog crate is equipped
with cozy bedding for your dog.
- Do make sure your dog gets plenty of
human companionship when it is out of its dog crate.
- Do make sure your dog's crate allows for
total ventilation.
- Do make sure the dog crate permits your
dog to see everything going on around it.
Crate Size:
- It is better to use a dog crate a little
too large than one a little too small.
- The dog crate should be tall enough to
allow your dog to sit up without hitting its head on the top of the
crate.
- The dog crate should be large enough to
permit your dog to stretch out flat on his side without being cramped.
- For an adult dog, measure the distance
from the tip of its nose to the base of its tail and use a dog crate
close to, but not less than, this length.
- For a puppy, measure as above, than add
about 12" for anticipated rapid growth.
Crate Location:
- The dog crate should be placed in, or
very close to, a "people" area (kitchen, family room, etc.).
- The dog crate should be placed in an
area that doesn't make your dog feel isolated or banished.
- The dog crate should be placed in a spot
free from drafts and not too near a direct heat source.
- The dog crate should be placed in a
corner and/or have the sides and back loosely draped with a light
cover (towel, sheet, etc.) to provide your dog with a sense of den
security and privacy while still providing adequate air flow and
visibility.
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The
Canine Nose
The canine nose is an awesome organ
and what a dog uses to become acquainted with his surroundings. The
canine nose can be used to search out drugs, escaped criminals, disaster
victims, etc. and can be trained in scent work to find a particular scent
among many scents. A dog's nose makes him very valuable as a
tracker, police dog, search and rescue dog, military dog, etc.
The canine nose has a nasal cavity
rich with blood vessels and nerve endings that connect to a highly
developed olfactory center in the brain. Therefore, a dog's nose is
much more sensitive than the human nose, perhaps a million times more
sensitive. With this incredible sense of smell, a dog's nose is seldom
fooled.
Know the Nose:
- The canine nose has no sweat glands.
- The canine nose is normally cool and
moist, but not wet.
- Dogs don't get colds like people do, but
they do get respiratory infections.
- A runny nose can be caused by a foreign
body in the nasal passage or illness, allergy, or a tumor. Seek
veterinary help.
- When dogs sneeze, it is generally caused
by an irritation in the nose. However, some dogs sneeze from
excitement or nervousness that stimulates the nerves in the nasal
passages.
- Never try to remove a foreign body from
a dog's nose yourself. Seek veterinary help.
- A discharge from the nose generally
means trouble. Seek veterinary help.
- Dermatitis can occur if the dog eats or
drinks out of plastic or rubber bowls. It is triggered by a reaction
to an antioxidant found in the dishes.
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